Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
