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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.